Bistrot Paul Bert’s Niche
WINES
Vouette et Sorbée
Blanc D'Argile Champagne
Bertrand Gautherot reclaimed his vines in 1986 and they’ve been Demeter biodynamic since 1998. Blanc d'Argile from his house Vouette et Sorbée located in Buxières-sur-Arce in the Côte des Bar is a Champagne of power and class. Sourced from vineyards whose soils are closer in both geology and geography to Chablis than the Marne, this is a blanc de blancs which in many ways evocative of grand cru Chablis. Aromatically the Blanc d'Argile is quite reticent at first, but with time and air, the wine begins to reveal notes of yellow plum and golden apple evolving to show hints of honeysuckle and shortbread. In the mouth you experience the traditional blanc de blancs flavors of lemon rind, white grapefruit pith, and dried herbs. After an hour, the wine shows its character as a fleshy, chiseled Champagne of intensity and definition displaying further flavors of preserved lemon, white button mushroom, and orange blossom honey, finishing with a light and silky mousse.
Guiberteau Saumur 2018
Domaine Guiberteau is a family estate located in the heart of the Loire, 12 kilometres south of Saumur. It consists of 17 hectares of vines that are between 5 and 80 years old and where only the Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc varieties are grown. In 2003, Romain Guiberteau, who belongs to the fourth generation of the family and is the current manager of Domaine, decided to implement organic agriculture for the cultivation of his vineyards, and in the plots the use of pesticides and herbicides is prohibited. Domaine Guiberteau Saumur Blanc is a wine from young vines grown on soils composed of clay and limestone. The Chenin Blanc bunches are picked by hand. On arriving at the winery, the grapes are pressed slowly and the must obtained is fermented with their native yeasts. Lastly, the wine is aged in French oak barrels from the Tronçais forests before being bottled, and wines are bottled unfined/unfiltered. Mineral-driven, nervy, and undeniably refreshing.
Foillard Beaujolais 2018
Completely organic, Jean Foillard made his name crafting world-class, age-worthy bottlings from tiny, prestigious sites within the Beaujolais cru of Morgon. In the last few years, however, he has also added a bottling of Beaujolais Villages to his small lineup. Jean thought the grapes he was using were of high enough quality to make a cuvée with more complexity and a little more longevity, so he proposed taking his time to produce a Beaujolais-Villages instead of a Beaujolais Nouveau. Featuring grapes from high-elevation, granite heavy terroirs barely outside the region’s crus, this wine is silky and seductive, with notes of rose petals, red berries, and stones. With just the right amount of tannin and acidity, and lots of class, it is perfect for all occasions.
Hervé Souhaut Blanc 2018
Hervé Souhaut created Domaine Romaneaux-Destezet in 1993. Hervé works 5-hectares of old and ancient vines— between 50 to 100 years old. He is very fortunate to own two vineyards in the Rhône Valley just opposite the storied hills of Hermitage in Saint Joseph. This region is widely recognized as being one of the finest areas for wine production on the planet; thanks in part to its elevation, ancient vineyard sites and the southeastern and southern exposures. The domaine is located further into the hills of the Northern Ardeche in the tiny town of Arlebosc, about a 30-minute drive, winding through the hills from St Joseph. The winery is underneath the 16th century “les romaneaux” fortified farm and sits in the middle of the vines that make up the Souteronne, Syrah, and white cuvées. Hervé works entirely on whole grape bunches and semi-carbonic maceration. A white of two indigenous Rhone white varietals (Viognier, Roussanne) from very old vines. The grapes are given a long macertion at low tempartures, fermented with native yeast in used wood and aged in old oak. No filtering and very low additions of sulfur.
Golden straw in the glass with lovely scents of white flowers, tropical fruit, wet stones and notes of oak. The palate is supple with loads of pear and fig flavors that are backed by elegant mineral notes. Moderate acidity, apple preserves and a warm note of oak.
MENU
St. Jacques à la Coque, brown butter + chanterelles
Paired with Vouette & Sorbée Blanc d’Argile Champagne
Salad Lyonnaise + Ouef et Lardons
Paired with Guiberteau Saumur 2018
Boeuf au Poivre + Pomme de terre
Paired with Foillard Beaujolais 2018
Grand Marnier Soufflé
Paired with Hervé Souhaut Blanc 2018
BISTROT PAUL BERT
Since 2000, Paul Bert has been a casual neighborhood place where Bertrand (aka M. Bistrot Paul Bert) is always in the dining room, circulating among the tables to greet regulars, locals, international industry friends and visitors alike.
It looks like the Paris bistrot of your imagination, the fruits and vegetables are grown on their farm, the seafood is sourced from his wife’s family in Brittany (France’s premier shellfish area) and the wines are personally walked in the door by the winegrowers.
Its loud, buzzy, tight on space and the servers are racing to keep up. Locals who love it have been regulars for years. Visitors have been making it a part of their eating plans each time they visit Paris, as a tradition.