The Wines
1. Loimer Grosse Reserve, ‘Lagenlois’ Blanc de Blanc Brut Nature 2013
Fred Loimer’s wines are among the very best examples of Grüner Veltliner and Riesling in Austria. He began practicing biodynamics in 2006 and is a founding member of Respekt, a certifying body for biodynamic viticulture. His estate near the village of Langenlois in the Kamptal region includes several prestigious single-vineyards and his winery is a model of modern efficiency.
Langenlois Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature Grosse Reserve is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Gris from biodynamically-farmed vineyards in Langenlois. The wine was made in the traditional method using indigenous yeasts for alcoholic fermentation followed by full malolactic fermentation and aging on the lees in stainless-steel tanks for nine months. After bottling, the wine spent an additional 48 months on the lees before disgorgement and was finished with zero dosage.
Langenlois Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature Grosse Reserve shows a bright and pure nose of ripe golden apple and grapefruit. On the palate, the wine’s creamy texture and vibrant acidity are framed by layers of tart red fruit and toasted brioche. A dense and persistent finish underscores the quality of the wine and hints at its ability to improve with time in bottle.
2. ‘Haloze Blanc’, Stajerska, Weingut Gross 2017
Gross. Let’s get this out of the way right up front. In German, gross simply means big. In modern wine parlance, it means great or grand, as in Grosses Gewächs. In Austria and Slovenia, it is also the proud name of a family with more than a century of well-regarded winemaking history. Michael Gross is the fifth generation, entrusted with opening a new chapter in the family story across the border in Štajerska Slovenija (the region’s official name, which translates to Styrian Slovenia). In 2004, luck brought the Gross family prime vineyards in Gorca and Colles, some 60 km (40 miles) south of their home in Ratsch, Austria. In 2011, Vino Gross was born. The family began restoring the vineyards, with a focus on white varieties traditional to the region, especially sauvignon blanc and furmint.
Haloze is a cuveè that blends the the dominant grape varieties in Michael’s vineyards of the Haloze Hills. The blend includes vines of furmint (40%), welschriesling (40%), and sauvignon blanc (20%), typical varieties of the region growing. Across the three varieties, vines span 10-65 years in age and grow on the calcareous clay-marl soils locally referred to as opok. Fermentation takes place in large neutral oak barrel, where the wine remains for 10 months before spending and additional 2 months in stainless prior to bottling.
3. Leo Erazo ‘Revolver’ Gualtallary Valley Chardonnay, 2016
Revolver was founded by Leo Erazo in the heart of Mendoza’s Uco Valley back in 2013. Erazo farms small-bach Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that ferment naturally in neutral barrel and concrete. This 100% Chardonnay is from a high elevation vineyard in the Gualtallary region of the Uco valley. The nose shows white flowers, pear, apricot with lifted notes of nutmeg, mace, and a flinty mineral quality. The restrained palate shows honey suckle, pear, toasted almon paste, with light hints of whipped honey butter. Bright acid and with a hint of creamy oak shine through on this tiny production Chardonnay. Unfined, Unfiltered aged in 50% Concrete Egg and 50% Second-Use French Oak, vines were planted in 2008 and see limestone and granite at an elevation of 4600ft.
4. Domaine Huet, ‘Vouvray’ Petillant Brut 2014
The Loire Valley’s most famous estate was founded in 1928 by Victor Huët, and rose to prominence under his son, Gaston. It was purchased by the Hwang family in 2003.
The estate’s three vineyards sit atop Vouvray’s esteemed Première Côte. The Côte’s limestone-rich clay soils yield wines of intensity and great longevity. By any reckoning, these rank among the greatest vineyard sites in the Loire Valley.
100% Chenin Blanc from Huet’s three biodynamic vineyards on Vouvray’s Premiere Côte. Bottled before primary fermentation is completed, yeast added to complete the ferment. At 10g/l there’s a noticeable sweetness, but it finishes dry and zippy thanks to pronounced acid. Get ripe honeycrisp apples, nectarines, exotic spices and honeysuckle. Certified organic, Certified Demeter Biodynamic.
